Finding the right fuel can holders any of those things you don't really think about until your Jerry can is bouncing around the truck bed or, worse, leaking all over your camping gear. We've all been there—trying to wedge a plastic jug between a cooler plus a spare tire, hoping the bungee cords endure for just one more mile of washboard road. But if you're planning on heading off the grid, you quickly understand that "good enough" usually isn't.
A solid mount doesn't just keep things organized; it's a massive safety feature. Gasoline is heavy, it's smelly, and it's incredibly flammable. Having it secured to the beyond your vehicle in a dedicated bracket means you aren't breathing in fumes and you aren't risking a spill within your cabin. Let's get into why these mounts matter and how to pick one that won't allow you to down when you're fifty miles in the nearest pavement.
Why You Can't Just Wing It
You might be tempted to just throw a strap over your cans and call it a day. I've seen people do it with many methods from ratchet straps to literal rope. The thing is that fuel is dense. A full 5-gallon (20-liter) Jerry can weighs about 35 to 40 pounds. When you're hitting bumps or taking sharp turns, the weight multiplies with momentum. A loose can becomes a heavy projectile that can dent your bodywork or snap a cheap plastic handle.
Dedicated fuel can holders are designed to cradle the base of the container. They usually have a metal frame that prevents the can from sliding side-to-side or front-to-back. This snug fit is what stops the friction that eventually wears holes in metal cans or weakens the seams on plastic ones. If you've ever had a pinhole leak in a fuel can, you know it's a nightmare you don't want to repeat.
Different Styles for various Rigs
Its not all vehicle is built the same, so not every holder is going to work for you. Based on what you're driving—whether it's a built-out Jeep, a dual-sport motorcycle, or a classic truck—you've got some main options.
Roof Rack Mounts
These are super popular with the overlanding crowd. Putting your fuel up on the top keeps it taken care of and saves room in the cargo area. Most of these holders are flat trays with a strap or a metal bar that locks over the top. The big thing to remember here is the center of gravity. Adding 80 pounds of fuel to your roof makes your rig a lot more "tippy" on off-camber trails. If you go this route, try to mount them as low and as centered as possible.
Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier Mounts
This is the classic look. You see these on a lot of Wranglers and older Land Rovers. These fuel can holders usually bolt onto a swing-away tire carrier. It's a great spot because it's simple to reach when you actually need to pour the gas. However, you should make sure your bumper or tire carrier can handle the extra weight. If your hinge is sagging, adding two full cans of gas might be the breaking point.
Side Mounts (Pannier Style)
Mostly seen on motorcycles or some specific van builds, side mounts keep the weight lower. For bikes, these are usually smaller 1-gallon or 5-liter cans. The holders are often simple cages that bolt onto the frame. If you're a rider, you know that even an extra gallon of gas can be the difference between which makes it to the next town or pushing a 500-pound machine through the dirt.
Materials: Steel vs. Aluminum
When you start shopping, you'll notice two main materials: powder-coated steel and aluminum. Both have their pros and cons, plus it really comes down to where you reside and how you travel.
Steel holders are the heavy hitters. They are incredibly tough and can have a beating from rocks and branches without bending. Most are powder-coated to prevent rust, but keep an eye on them. Once that coating chips, rust will start to creep in, especially if you live near the ocean or drive on salted winter roads.
Aluminum holders , on the other hand, are lighter. If you're worried about your total vehicle weight (and we all should be), aluminum is a great choice. They don't rust, though they can oxidize over time. Drawback? They're usually a little more expensive and might not be quite as "bombproof" as a thick steel cage. For most people, though, a high-quality aluminum holder is more than enough.
The significance of Locking Mechanisms
Let's talk about something a bit annoying but necessary: theft. Gas isn't getting any cheaper, and a full Jerry can is a tempting target for anyone with sticky fingers. Many fuel can holders come with a built-in locking bar. Usually, this is only a metal strap that goes over the top from the can and has a hole for a padlock.
Even if you aren't worried about someone stealing your fuel, a lock is a great secondary safety measure. It ensures the latch can't accidentally bounce open on a rough trail. There's a certain peace of mind that comes with knowing your fuel isn't going anywhere until you want it to. Make absolutely certain you use a high-quality weather-resistant lock; otherwise, you'll be fighting a rusted keyway when you're actually trying to refuel.
Vibrations and Padding
This is a small detail that makes an enormous difference. Metal-on-metal contact is the enemy. If your metal Jerry can is sitting directly on a metal holder, the constant vibration of driving will eventually rub the paint off both. After the paint is gone, rust starts, and eventually, the metal can wear thin.
The best fuel can holders come with some sort of rubber or foam padding on the contact points. If the one you bought doesn't have it, it's a cheap and straightforward DIY fix. You can buy adhesive rubber strips or even use pieces of old bike inner tubes. It keeps the can quiet (no more annoying squeaking on the highway) and protects your gear.
Where to Mount Them Safely
I touched about this with the roof rack, but weight distribution is key. If you're mounting multiple cans, try to balance them out. If you put two cans for the left side of your bumper, your suspension is going to lean that way. It might not seem like much, but over a long trip, it affects tire wear and handling.
Also, think about your exhaust. It sounds like common sense, but you'd be surprised how often people mount their fuel can holders right above a tailpipe. Gasoline expands when it gets hot. You don't want your fuel sitting in a heat soak all day. Keep them away from heat sources and try to keep them out of direct, pounding sunlight all day on end if you can help it.
Maintenance Isn't Just for the Engine
Once you've got your holders installed, don't just forget about them. Give the bolts a fast check every time you need to do an oil change or before a large trip. Off-roading has a way of vibrating even the tightest bolts loose. A little bit of blue Loctite on the mounting hardware goes a long way toward making sure your holder doesn't fall off on the freeway.
Also, check the straps. If your holder uses nylon webbing to obtain the can, look for fraying or UV damage. Sun is brutal on fabric, and after a year or two in the elements, those straps can get brittle and snap when you least expect it.
Final Thoughts
All in all, investing in decent fuel can holders is about protecting your automobile and making your trips a lot less stressful. There's enough to worry about when you're exploring the backcountry—wondering in case your gas cans are still attached shouldn't be one of them. Whether want a heavy-duty steel rear mount or even a lightweight aluminum tray for your roof, just be sure it's secure, lockable, and padded. Your gear (and your nose) will thank you when you reach camp with no single drop of spilled fuel.